In very general terms, there are three fundamental game plans used. You need to be agile enough to hop between strategies quickly as the action of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This comprises of assembling a 6-deep wall of checkers, or at a minimum as thick as you are able to achieve, to block in the opponent’s checkers that are located on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most acceptable strategy at the start of the match. You can assemble the wall anyplace within your eleven-point and your 2-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the game progresses.
The Blitz
This is composed of locking your home board as quick as possible while keeping your competitor on the bar. For example, if your opposer tosses an early 2 and moves one checker from your 1-point to your three-point and you then toss a 5-5, you are able to play 6/1 6/1 8/3 8/3. Your opposer is now in serious difficulty taking into account that they have 2 pieces on the bar and you have locked half your inner board!
The Backgame
This tactic is where you have two or more pieces in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor is a point filled by at a minimum 2 of your checkers.) It must be employed when you are significantly behind as it much improves your circumstances. The better places for anchor spots are towards your competitor’s smaller points and also on adjoining points or with one point separating them. Timing is crucial for an effectual backgame: after all, there’s no reason having two nice anchors and a solid wall in your own inner board if you are then forced to break down this straight away, while your competitor is getting their checkers home, considering that you don’t have other additional checkers to shift! In this case, it’s more tolerable to have checkers on the bar so that you can preserve your position until your opponent provides you a chance to hit, so it will be a great idea to try and get your challenger to hit them in this case!
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